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Next Generation: David Hook 2012 Pinot Grigio

Here is a feature wine from David Hook, one of the Hunter Valley’s Next Gen winemakers that you can catch on their 2013 Caravan of Courage tour at a location near you:

This is one of the very first 2012’s that I have tasted. And it was bottled on the 7th March (you might ask why I was so late!) In talking with David Hook, I was not surprised to discover that this is a big hit at cellar door, and everywhere else.  He has been perfecting it for decades – that this is the 20th Anniversary of this wine.

David has got the balance right.  There is plenty of pleasure in the juicy ripe citrus & pear, almost honeydew melon fruit with some nuttiness to round it out. Like a classic vespa, it zips across the palate with fresh drive making sure its presence is felt long after it enters, but without the broad footprint of a car.

I think that this should be a staple for your fridge. It will offer zesty refreshment even in winter when I would take it out of the fridge for a little bit before pouring & drink with a smoked salmon angel hair pasta while planning your escape from the cold. Buon appetito!

Date: 11th May 2012   Price: $18  Value: $$$$  Drink: Now Now Now – 2 years

Originally posted: 23rd May 2012 - Tasted again April 2013 and it is still looking fresh and feisty!

Read more about David and the other Next Gen winemakers here.

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Oxford Landing 2011 Pinot Grigio


 

Want to see a wine that gets talked about in a group of friends AND it is under $10? This is it. At the Sydney Good Food & Wine Show I attended a food & wine matching session with Oxford Landing. Sitting next to a group of friends, this was the talk of the table. They loved the ‘foodability’, well and the fact that it was not Sauvignon Blanc. While I can certainly attest to the foodability of the wine, what also impressed me was that the winemaking team have given the wine 4 – 6 months lees work & native yeast ferment for a wine that you will pick up for under $10.

The extra care taken has produced a wine that has the varietal pear fruit with some ripe melon lift. It is a dry fresh drink offering generous round fruit weight hitting the middle palate. I would be drinking this with friends – anywhere!

Date: 22 June 2012   Price: $9   Value: $$$$     Drink: Now

 

Disclaimer: I did attend the session as a guest of Oxford Landing.

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Part 2: Where wine is King!

Pizzini – a family story….

The story of the Pizzini family or families are an integral part of the King Valley. In the 1950’s, the brothers Pizzini moved their families from Trentino-Alto Adige in the Italian alpine region to finally resetttle in the King Valley in Victoria. Eventually, tobacco & wine became entwined with Roberto Pizzini’s son Alfred & brother Arnold both diversifying into wine.  Arnold started the Chrismont vineyards with his son Arnie & in 1994, Alfred & Katrina Pizzini started the Pizzini label after being long time contract grape growers. There are other family connections in wine in the valley as well.

The Pizzini label is one that represents the savvy initiative of the family.  Not only do they make great wines – including some of the best Italian varietals I’ve tasted outside of Italy.  The cellar door is housed in the now defunct tobacco factory overlooking the glorious & bucolic rolling hills and is welcoming to all & family.  And there is no better venue for Katrina Pizzini’s cooking school.

The Pizzini skills with the Italian grapes of their Northern Italian homeland shine through in every bottle.  Pinot Grigio, Arneis, Verduzzo, Prosecco, Brachetto, Sangiovese & Nebbiolo are just the start of the story.  The Pizzini big reds are stylistically powerful wines but they do need time in the glass (or decanter if you like) for the fruit to come to the fore & smoothly match the warm spice of the oak. And oak is plentiful at the Pizzini winery. It is particularly interesting to find an Australian Brunello behind the Pizzini Rubacuoni Sangiovese.

While I am not forgetting that I started this road in the search of Prosecco, here I will start with rather unique (in Australia) Brachetto – the Pizzini family call it the red version of the muscat grape.  As well I believe, with aromas reminiscent of summer roses & that distinct grapey-ness that we love in Moscato style wines with some delightful ripe strawberry. This was a Moscato style wine that the man in my life had more than one glass of!

Pizzini Whitefields Pinot Grigio is one of my favourite Australian Grigios. The 2010 offered creamy pear with gorgeous silk on the palate. Wild yeasts plus some time in 4 yr old oak (20%) gave it that creamy lees texture & a layered finish. But it is all Grigio, retaining that lightness in style, refreshing liveliness with a minerally backbone.

Sangiovese comes in many forms here, ranging from the dry strawberry, cherry fruit & floral Pizzini Rosetta rosé to the Pizzini Sangiovese Shiraz with no oak through to the Pizzini Rubacuoni Sangiovese 2004 which is so powerful but is yet a baby. There are of course several other forms in between & each of them are well worth the effort of tracking down.

Although, I enjoyed the Rubacuoni full of cloves, black cherry, prunes & fruit cake, my preference was for one of those blends – the smooth Pizzini Il Barone 2006.  It is an original blend made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Sangiovese & Nebbiolo.  I like to think that this is wine that interprets the counterpoints of the family’s culture – a mix of the best of both countries and is more than a little like Alfred Pizzini – a smooth charmer. While the wine is richly concentrated with rose, cigar box, black currants & spice it is fuller in body but still holding onto its food friendliness by not overstepping the mark. And did I mention smooth….. Great value for around $50 & will age gracefully. (Hint: they also release it in magnums!)

I am probably leaving the best to last – the Pizzini Coronamento Nebbiolo with its rich rose, earthy spice, dried savoury herbs, & cinnamon.  While Australia is beginning to really work with this grape which is notoriously hard to get right, this Nebby really hit an Italian nerve with me. It has those tannins with enough concentration to be a pleasure on the palate. Mind you, as I said at the beginning, there is plenty of oak to be found at Pizzini. The 2004 is, again, still a baby although is approachable now.

To round off the Pizzini experience, there is a Vin Santo on offer made from old Trebbiano vines & air dried (well, there must be plenty of drying equipment in an old tobacco factory).

The Pizzini experience is one that was all embracing. Just make sure that you leave enough time to fully appreciate all the talents of the family. You cannot rush it or their wines.

Next week I will finish my scorching tour down Prosecco Road with Chrismont. Did you miss Part 1 last week … click here.

Visit the Pizzini family at www.pizzini.com.au

Need to catch up on Part 1 & 3? -

click here for Part 1 – Sam Miranda

click here for Part 3 – Chrismont

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Tasmanian devils! And some angels too…..

There is so much to love about Tasmania, stunning scenery, a gourmand’s paradise, a relaxed pace …. and some of the best wine in the world.  The only thing is that often there is just not enough to make it out of the country, sometimes not even the state.

Tasmania is cool.  After all, there is nothing between it & the Antarctic so logic dictates that there are some very interesting weather patterns here – primarily in the colder range of the spectrum. Being so southern in latitude also means that there is those long long ripening days with crisp nights. The formula for concentration & intensity with natural acid.

The official designation is of cool maritime climate, which lends itself to silky savoury Pinot Noir, intense, sometimes edgy Riesling & some of the finest freshest sparklings. Although it is unfair to make such generalisations, as there are distinct differences between the sub-regions of Tasmania. In the North there is the Tamar Valley & the North East, in the South – Derwent Valley, Coal River Valley & Huon Channel areas plus the East Coast & North West.

The unique & rich personality of Tasmanian wine cannot be contained in the bottle. There are so many stories to be explored.

For a start, it is home to one of arguably one of the finest cellar door experiences that you could ever expect. Not every cellar door has its own Museum of Old & New Art (MONA) complete with Greek artefacts amongst the Brett Whiteley’s & Kulik’s.  Not to mention the stylish world class accommodation, The Pavilions, that overlook the Derwent, the fine dining experience plus a brewery & a ferry service.  But Moorilla Estate has. The wine is not bad either. I will leave you to make your own decision though about their website www.moorilla.com.au which seems to be more art than useful.

Then there is Frogmore Creek who has been very active in diversifying their Riesling offering to include a 40 grammer (FGR refers to 40 grams per litre of residual sugar, the current version has 45) & an Ice Wine version. I will let you in on a secret, Tassie is cold but not so cold that this could be produced naturally.  Then there is the unique personality of Domaine A & their cultish wines such Lady A Sauvignon Blanc & the Domaine A Cabernet Sauvignon with its 36 months in new oak.

The concern about climate & the expected changes that will radically change the Australian industry, has led to a bit a flurry of investment in Tasmania. The recent purchase by Shaw + Smith of the Tolpuddle Vineyard in the Coal River Valley was just the tip of the investment tree & most certainly will not be the last.  Brown Brothers have recently purchased Tamar Ridge & Yalumba have added Dalrymple Vineyard to their stable already containing a Tasmanian, the Jansz brand.

These recent attentions will mean that Tasmania’s profile will only be on the rise. Now is the time to begin your own Tasmanian exploration.  Here are some suggestions that will provide some great start points:

Domaine A ‘Lady A’ Sauvignon Blanc 2008 :  Incredibly silky with a nose of apple with lemon & stonefruit. Finely textured with a fresh pineapple finish. An elegant & a gorgeous lady. $60

Grey Sands Pinot Gris 2008 : Incredibly expressive with juicy nutty pear character.  Dry, linear acid with a long fine length. One of Australia’s finest Pinot Gris perhaps you could say ‘reaching some angelic heights’. $39

Tamar Ridge Kayena Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009 :  Pretty floral cherry spice nose. With resonating intensity, an uber silky texture & a savoury finish, at around $30, this Tassie devil should be a staple in your repertoire.

Jansz Sparkling Rose 2007: So clever to make sure the colour matched the peachy pink of a ballet slipper with their current sponsorship of the Australian Ballet. The rich berry crème brulee that lingers fresh & satisfying is even more clever. Only 250 cases made, so get in quick. $45+

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T’Gallant Grace 2008 Pinot Grigio

grace PGT’Gallant have been one of the leaders in the development of Pinot Gris/Grigio. This is a very fine example of an Australian Pinot Grigio.  Its dry crisp nutty pear and cashew characters have some spicy support.  There is plenty of refreshing acid which is gently rounded and almost creamy in texture adding to the fineness in the mouth.  Its citrus finish is lingering and satisfying. This is a wine that is made to share with friends &/or take to lunch.  Try it with some bang bang chicken salad or with scallops that have that just caramelised nuttiness.

Date: May 2010   Price: $29     Value: $$      Drink: Now

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